Miniature Millinery - Molding the Tricorn Hat

Hi Everyone! Welcome to Part 2 of Miniature Millinery! This week we go a step further and mold the basic hat into a Molded Tricorn Hat. It's fun to see how adding just a few new design elements creates a totally different look!

Now that you have your basic felt hat, you have endless options for finishing it! In this example, we're going to make a simply trimmed tricorn hat to walk you through the basics of finishing and shaping a felted hat. Once you've mastered that, you can embellish these hats to your heart's content!

 

 

 Week Two Task:

• If you haven't completed the project in Part 1, you'll want to jump back over to that post and follow along to make the basic molded felt hat first. To do that, You'll need to click over the Sewing With Cinnamon Bonuses section, and download pattern piece pages for the brim of the cockade/tricorn hat. Review the supply list below and gather up all the necessary fabrics and supplies. Then watch the video and follow along to see how it's all done!
• Now you can follow along to create the molded tricorn hat variation! Be sure to look over the supply list for this project. Gather up all the things you'll need and follow along as Shari walks you through making the Molded Tricorn Hat!
• Jump over the SWC Facebook Group for conversation and project sharing. Be sure to tag Shari there so she gets notified and can respond quickly!

Miniature Millinery - Molded Felt Hats Part Two:

 

We encourage you to watch the video (or download it from the link above to watch offline). But we know that the written instructions can also be preferred. Follow along below for the breakdown of the entire process:

Supplies Needed:

• 1/2 yard (0.5m) fabric for lining and trim 
• 14-inches 1/2-inch wide ribbon for the hat band 
• 6-inches ( 25 cm) 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide ribbon for cockade band 
• One 3/8-inch (9 mm) decorative button 
• 6-inches ( 25 cm) 2-inch wide satin ribbon for a cockade 
• Perle cotton, narrow ribbon, or embroidery floss for tacking the hat brims 
• Thread 
• Tapestry or Leather needle 

 (Continuing from part 1)

Step 11: If the hat will feature a cockade band, fold the 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide ribbon for the cockade band in half to form a loop, being careful not to twist the ribbon. Pin the ends of the ribbon side by side on the top edge of the brim where indicated on the pattern piece. Baste to secure. 

Bias Trim

Step 12: Cut the bias trim to the proper length. Being careful not to twist the bias trim, pin the ends right sides together. Stitch and press the seam allowance open.

 

Note: To distinguish the topside from the underside of the hat, the underside is left unshaded in the illustrations. 

Step 13: Pin one edge of the bias trim along the outer edge of the brim with the right side of the bias trim facing the underside of the brim. Stitch with a 1/2-inch (12 mm) seam allowance. 

Step 14: Turn the bias trim over the edge of the brim, pulling gently so that the bias trim lays at along the seamline underneath. Turn the raw edge under so that the folded edge lines up the with seamline on the upper side of the brim and pin in place. Hand stitch or machine stitch to secure. Press the brim using plenty of steam to set the seams and tighten up the trim around the edge of the brim. 

Step 15: Make a hat band by cutting a length of 1/2-inch (12 mm) wide ribbon about 1-inch ( 5 cm) longer than the circumference of the crown of the hat along the brim. Stitch the ends together using a 1/2- inch (12 mm) seam allowance. Press the seam allowance to one side. Place the hatband around the crown of the hat so that the seam is at the side or the back. Tack the hat band to the crown at the seam allowance. 

Step 16: Bring the cockade band to the underside of the brim and mark the inside bottom of the loop. Stitch a decorative button at the mark and fasten the band over it.

 

Step 17: Press and steam the hat brim to so en the felt. Once it feels pliable, turn up the brim along the fold lines where indicated on the pattern. You don’t want to crease the brim, only curl it along the fold lines. If necessary, spray the brim with a little bit of water to make it easier to manipulate the felt. Use your finger to smooth and curve the folds. The felt will stiffen up again as it dries. Pin the brim to the crown of the hat at the dots, adjusting the position so that the tacking points are evenly spaced on either side of the centerline. Use your fingers to smooth and shape the brim as desired, spraying with a little water as necessary to work out any creases. Use water only as necessary to avoid distorting the shape of the rest of the brim. Once you are happy with the shape, let the hat completely dry. 

Step 18: A er the hat has dried, use a leather or tapestry needle to tack the brim in place at the tacking points with a perle cotton, embroidery floss, ribbon, or string. 

Lining The Hat 

Step 19: Pin two sets of lining pieces right sides together and matching the notches. Stitch. Clip the curves and press the seam allowances open. 

Step 20: Pin the two lining sections right sides together, matching the notches and seam lines. Stitch. Clip the curves and press the seam allowances open. Stay-stitch the lining 1/4-inch (6 mm) om the bottom edge. 

Step 21: Turn the bottom edge of the lining under along the stay-stitching and pin it inside the hat along the bottom edge of the crown. Being careful not to crush the hat while you work, whipstitch the lining to the crown to secure. 

Step 22: Pin the ends of the cockade ribbon right sides together. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open and turn right side out. 

 

Step 23: Sew two rows of running stitches down the center of the cockade ribbon. Draw the running stitches up to gather the cockade into a bow. Tack the ends of the thread securely at the back of the cockade. 

Step 24: Place cockade in cockade holder, tack in place to secure, if necessary.

 

 

 

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