Hi Everyone! Are you ready for a deep dive into the topic of "sewing with knits"? I hope so! Honestly, knit fabrics are pretty much my go-to choice when designing new pieces. I think that's what set Liberty Jane apart early on in the miniature world of doll clothes design. My general rule is "make real clothes, but at a smaller scale" basically fashion in miniature!
When shopping for fabrics, my first question is, "Would I wear something made out of that?" This generally leads me to pick up a variety of knit fabrics. Very rarely do I get excited over quilting cottons. Seriously, the best test is to go look at your own closet (or a child's). Feel the fabrics and you'll quickly see that to make authentic looking items, it's important to consider this fundamental design principle first.
Don't Fear Knits! I promise you this is going to be a fun month :) We have a lot of content to share and with the use of the facebook group we are able to answer your questions "one on one"! You may be surprised to hear this, but I still don't own a serger, which means I sew all my knits on a standard sewing machine. A serger can be a great tool, and if you use one, that's great! For me personally, I don't mass produce items and prefer to change threads for every item I'm sewing, so I've continued to just use my standard machine and learn the tricks of the trade. Sewing with knit fabric on a standard sewing machine is a skill everyone should master. Which leads me to my third rule: "Never say - I can't do that, it's too hard!" Fearing knits is silly! You can do this - let's get started...
Pattern Overview: For this topic, you can choose to sew with any of the Liberty Jane patterns listed below, for any size doll.
Liberty Jane Trendy T-shirt FREE (double turn hems)
Liberty Jane T-Shirt Variations (neck binding, sleeve binding)
Liberty Jane Off The Shoulder Tee (single fold hems)
Liberty Jane V-Neck Tee (v-neck technique)
Liberty Jane Baseball T-Shirt (Neckband)
Liberty Jane Cropped Sweater (No hems, fully lined!)
Liberty Jane Leggings
Liberty Jane Yoga Pants
Coupon Code: This month's discount code can be used to redeem any Liberty Jane brand pattern valued at 5.99 or less. If you already have the patterns mentioned above, feel free to use it for something else. The code must be redeemed during this month. It expires 4-30-2017. Limit one-time use per person.
Preparation and Supplies: When sewing with knit fabrics, there are a few basic supplies you need.
1/4 yard of 2-way or 4-way stretch fabric
Sewing machine
Thread
Universal or Ball Point Needles
Iron (with steam function)
Hook and Loop tape product for closure
There are also a few supplies that you might not know about. These will help you to confidently sew your knit fabric projects!
Fusible knit interfacing (buy it off the bolt- Pellon EK130, SK135) or fusible knit stay tape 1/2" - 1" wide rolls (either will need to be trimmed down to 1/4" strips)
Other types of fusible tapes such as Wonder Tape, Stitch Witchery, Steam a Seam lite, etc. These don't have stretch in them though so use with caution. If the seam needs to stretch this type isn't recommended. A "wash away" tape can work, but you'd need to wash the item to regain the ability to stretch the fabric.
Tissue paper (to stabilize seams, tear way after)
Narrow stretch lace 3/8" width or less (great for hems)
Walking Foot
Let's Get Started:
Choose your pattern/fabric and then go through and cut out all the pieces. If you're new to sewing we have this video to show you how to position the pattern pieces and cut out The T-Shirt Pattern. If you're sewing a t-shirt with a neckband or binding, be sure to cut those pieces on the bias for the most stretch.
Follow the pattern instructions to begin assembling the item. If you're a beginner, we have this video showing how to sew the LJ T-shirt Pattern.
If you are able to use the Pellon EK 130 Fusible knit interfacing - I highly recommend it! This is a great way to stabilize the neckline and hems. This product is sold on a bolt and is around $5/yd. It is slightly sheer and has a bit of stretch across the width of the piece.
Cut the interfacing in 1/4" strips across the width. This will allow you to use it along the seam allowance lines. It will also help you to fold the neck and hem at exactly 1/4"!
With the rough (fusible) side down, place the interfacing along the neckline on the WRONG side of the knit fabric. Press carefully while turning the strip to fit the neckline. Trim off the end. Repeat for the Shirt Back neckline seam allowances.
Continue to sew the pattern as directed. I find this is only needed on the neckline seam allowances and then on the hemline. The shoulder and side seams usually don't stretch out too much when sewing. The next image shows the shirt Front and Back right side up (left) and then RIGHT sides together (right). Note interfacing is on the WRONG side of the fabric.
Now it's your turn! Practice using fusible knit interfacing on your project.
Post questions as comments under this Facebook Group Post - please preface your question by stating the pattern used and step number your on. Post finished progect as well - we'd love to see them!
Next Monday - My favorite knits - A resource guide, and more on hemming knits...
18 Comments
Soenie
April 23, 2017
Hello everyone. I am about to cut the liberty jane off the shoulder tee but I am now confused about cutting on the lengthwise grain. I am new to all this. Can anybody please explain this? Are the pattern pieces cut in different directions? Is also the same for the yoga pants front and back pieces.
Cinnamon
April 11, 2017
@Rebecca – I’ll connect with PF support and see what the issue might be. You should be able to log into your account and see you order and click the “download” link to access the file…
Rebecca
April 11, 2017
I used the knitpick code to get a pattern. I got the confirmation info, but I have not received the download info. What do I need to do to get that?
Karen
April 10, 2017
I noticed that Schmetz has a stretch and jersey needle. Do either one of those make sewing knits easier?
Cinnamon
April 07, 2017
@Myrna – The walking foot is an optional accessory you can use, but we’ll show it next week so you can see what it does and how it works :) Regarding stitching, generally I use a straight stitch with doll clothes, but on the hemline a twin needle works great because it allows the top to stretch. On a rib-knit tank top, I’ll use a zigzag, it seems to work better for that type of fabric.
Cinnamon
April 07, 2017
@Jen – We’ll illustrate the stretch lace next week with “hems” We’ve used it in several patterns as a way to stabilize a knit hemline. I believe Lightning Ridge Top (Tank Top) and WW Baseball T-shirt both show it in the pattern instructions. And it’s a stretch lace trim, 1/2" width or narrower.
Jen
April 07, 2017
Did I miss what the stretch lace is for? I can’t seem to find any reference to it other than in the “supplies” list. And what exactly do you mean by stretch lace? Like the edging on little girls’ panties, or more like a piece of fabric?
Angeline
April 07, 2017
Thanks for your responses.
Terry
April 06, 2017
Another tip for Angeline: Mary’s right that doll hems are usually sewn first before the side seam due to the small opening. Here are some other tips if you mean that you want to sew the hem after the side seam as with people clothes. 1) It helps to press in the folds for the hems first before sewing the side seams. Open them up to sew the side seam, and then you’re ready to just refold them to sew the hem. 2) Since doll hems are usually too small to go around the machine, you might be able to sew a continuous hem with the opening loop above the machine and then basically sewing inside the loop (inside the sleeve that is right side out). A lot of it depends on how small the opening is. 3) If the opening is still too small to put on the machine, but you really want to sew the hem after sewing the side seam, hand-sewing is always an option and gives you more opportunity to make adjustments and get things to line up as you go.
Mary Rister
April 06, 2017
I have a hint for sewing sleeve hems, sew your hems before sewing the sides. The armholes are pretty small to stitch around. The same goes for sewing pant or capri hems. I hope this helps.
MaryI
Nora
April 06, 2017
Thanks for the great tip, heading to the store today so I can try the fusible knit. I tend to have trouble with the last bit of the sleeve seam stretching out and shifting to the side as it passes under my machine, so I can’t wait to try this!
Angeline
April 05, 2017
A general question when sewing tee shirt sides and sleeves. I never like the way my sleeve seams look but haven’t found a way to do a continuous hem on the sleeve after the side seam is sewn. Any tricks or tips?
Peggy
April 05, 2017
Just used the knit Pellon and made a beautiful blouse, never knew about this product!!!Wow was to much easier to sew!!! I learning to sew KNITS!
Jo
April 05, 2017
Regarding stabilizers, I’ve found that coffee filters work better for me than tissue paper.
Tanya
April 04, 2017
I use sewing machine embroldery stabilizer…particularly the no-iron tear away easy instead of tissue. More substance. Or I use a wash away stabilizer…depends on the fabric. Problem is stabilizers can be pricey. Look for a variety pack that gives you sample sized sheets. I keep all my scrap stabilizer from any embroidry project. Also if you have a friend that has an embroidery machine ask for some of their scraps….they should have plenty to share
myrna
April 04, 2017
I don’t know what a walking foot is, and do I need one? And should all the stitching be done with a straight stitch or a zig zag stitich or what?
Barbara
April 04, 2017
Here’s a tip I discovered. Instead of using tissue paper for difficult seems, I use tracing paper. It’s just a little sturdier and rips away so much easier. No little pieces stuck in the stitches.
Barbara
April 04, 2017
Thank you for the tip of using Pelion fusible knit- I have been dreading making leotards for my baton twirler granddaughter. Looks like you solved my problem?
Soenie
April 23, 2017
Hello everyone. I am about to cut the liberty jane off the shoulder tee but I am now confused about cutting on the lengthwise grain. I am new to all this. Can anybody please explain this? Are the pattern pieces cut in different directions? Is also the same for the yoga pants front and back pieces.