Hip, Hip, Beret! The Tailored Beret Pattern Hack

Hi Everyone! In Part 2 we explore structure and tailoring with a look at adding that extra special touch to your Miniature Millinery project! Shari is joining us again with a detailed pattern hack tutorial to demonstrate the idea.

As a reminder, all of the coupon codes, download links, and monthly bonuses can be found in the Sewing With Cinnamon Bonuses section.

In this tutorial, Shari is going to show you how to tailor your favorite basic beret pattern by adding a full lining and a hat band. It doesn't change the overall look of the beret, but it helps the beret to sit more solidly on your dolls head and gives it a more professional finish. She'll be demonstrating this pattern hack on the hat from the Keepers Dolly Duds Coat Essentials pattern, but this techniques can also be done on the LJ Newsboy Cap & Beret (you can see the additional instructions for that one in the post below the video).

Follow along to watch the process:

 

Here's a breakdown of the full tutorial:

• The first thing I need to do is determine the width and length of the hat band piece. Because the hat band will be folded in half, the width should be double the desired width of the hat band plus 1/2”for the seam allowance. The length of the hat band should be the circumference of the doll's head plus 1/2” for the seam allowance.
• I want the finished hat band to be ½” wide and my doll has a 12- 1/4” head circumference, so my hat band piece should measure 1-1/2” wide and 12-3/4” long.
• Using these measurements, cut out a hat band from a lightweight piece of muslin or other sturdy fabric. Cut the outer beret pieces from your beret fabric and then cut the same pieces from your beret lining fabric.

1. With the right sides out, fold your hat band in half along the length. Press
   to crease.
2. Open the hat band back up and pin the ends right sides together. Stitch.
   Finger press the seam allowances open.

3. Fold the hat band along the crease and finger press again. Edge stitch close to the folded edge.

4. Fold the hat band in half with the seamline at one end. Pin each end to mark the center front and center back. Fold the band in half again, this time matching aligning the pins. Pin each end to mark the center of each side. Set the hat band aside. and center back. Fold the band in half again, this time matching aligning the pins. Pin each end to mark the center of each side. Set the hat band aside.

5. Follow the pattern instructions for sewing the beret. Do not sew any of the lining pieces to the beret at this time. If desired, finger press each seam allowance open and edge stitch on both sides of the seamline. This gives the beret a more finished look. Now, sew up a beret lining exactly the same way as the beret.

6. Pin the beret and beret lining WRONG sides together, matching the seamlines along the bottom edge. 

7. Compare the size of the bottom edge of the beret with the hat band. If the bottom edge of the beret is the same or slightly smaller than the hat band, stay-stitch the bottom edge of the beret and beret lining together and clip the curve. If the bottom edge of the beret is larger than the hat band, secure the beret and beret lining together with two rows of gathering stitches. In my example, the bottom edge of the beret is about the same size as the hat band so I will stay-stitch and clip the bottom edge of the beret. 

8. Mark the center front, center back, and centers of each side of the beret as you did the hat band.

9. With the right sides together and matching the markings, pin the hat band to the bottom edge of the beret. Ease the fit of the beret by
   stretching the clipped edges or evenly drawing up the gathering stitches. Stitch.

10. Press the seam allowance toward the hat band. Understitch the seam allowance to the hat band to help the band roll neatly inside the beret.

11. Turn the hat band under and finger press, following the seamline.

That's it! Look how nicely your beret sits on your dolls head.

 

To add the tailored hat band to the inside of the Newsboy Cap or Beret pattern you will need to gather it a bit to fit the band. Follow along to see how:

If your beret head diameter is larger than your hat band, sew two rows of gather stitches around the edge instead of the stay-stitching.

With the right sides together, pin the hat band to the bottom edge of the beret. Draw up the gathering stitches evenly to ease the fit around the hat band. Stitch the band in place.

Press the seam allowance toward the hat band, then under stitch the seam allowance to the hat band.

Turn the hat band under along the seamline, finger press to set in place.

That's it! Now you have a Tailored Beret that fits snugly on the dolls head!

 

The Finishing Touch: Add That Quintessential Stem To The Top!

As a finishing touch to this tailored beret, I am going to add the quintessential stem on top. For this, you will need a 3/4” x 4” piece of beret fabric cut on the bias.

1. Fold the stem piece in half along the length with the right sides together.
   Depending on how thick you would like the stem, stitch 1/8” to 3/16” from the folded edge.

2. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8”. To turn the stem right side out, snip the
   folded edge up to the seamline about 1/2” from one end. Slip a bobby pin onto the cut end, slide it inside the stem, and push the bobby pin through. Once you work the end of the stem inside, the rest to the stem should slide through easily.

3. Trim each end of stem, cutting the stem to the desired length. Use the
   back of the bobby pin to tuck the ends under. Whip stitch the top end of the stem to secure.
4. Fold the top of the beret in half twice to find the center and mark with a
   fabric pen or pin.

5. Whip stitch the stem to the center of the beret top, being careful to
   keep the stitches small and hidden.

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