We’ve put together the ultimate guide to help you make a historically accurate late-eighteenth century look for your 18-inch doll, focusing specifically on the period between 1770-1790s! Whether you’re creating a formal look (which in colonial times was referred to as “dress”) or a more working-class look (referred to as “undress”), you’ll be sure to find something to make for your doll from our pattern selection. Colonial womenswear had several key components: the undergarments, the gown, the shoes, the cloak, and the accessories. In the 1770s, girls started dressing like women as early as age five, so these components will add up to a great look for any age of colonial-clad doll.
Bonus Giveaway: After reading this post, scroll down to the bottom to leave a comment telling us which colonial outfit element is your favorite! Enter to win a $50 Pixie Faire Gift Card too, details below!
Colonial Undergarments
Colonial undergarments consisted of several different elements. The shift was the first layer worn and was a long shirt made from white linen that was worn down to the knees. The second layer after the shift were called stays. Stays were basically a type of corset that were filled with a stiff material (most often wood or sometimes even bone) which would help the colonial ladies maintain perfect posture. The petticoats were worn over the stays. These were large underskirts that would often be visible through the center of the gown. During the winter, extra petticoats (made from wool) would have been added to help the colonial lady stay warm. Occasionally, in the aristocracy, hoopskirts were worn to give the outfit more volume as well. A final undergarment worn by colonial women would have been a pair of woolen stockings that were worn up to over the knee.
(*Pictured above is the Thimbles & Acorns 18th Century Underpinnings.)
Colonial Gowns
A colonial-style gown was the primary focus of the outfit. Because of the lack of ability to mass produce clothing, each gown was fairly unique and fitted perfectly to the wearer. In the lower classes, gowns (and other types of clothing) would have most likely been made either by the wearer or a close member of the wearer’s family (i.e., a mother or a sister). In the upper classes garments may have been outsourced to a tailor. Gowns were most commonly made of natural materials like wool, cotton, or silk (for those who could afford it). Most gowns were fairly plain with minimal decorations, but upper-class ladies would often embellish their clothing more. Gowns would be fastened by laces in the front and feature a slit that would expose the petticoats. The sleeves of the gown would usually extend down towards the elbows and sometimes featured ruffles to dress it up.
(* Pictured above is the Thimbles & Acorns Enfourreau Gown)
Colonial Shoes
No outfit would be complete without the perfect pair of shoes, and a colonial outfit was no exception! Shoes during the colonial period tended to be very basic and made of woven materials or leather. Fancier shoes were made with silk and featured embellishments but were only available to the upper classes.
Colonial Cloak
Cloaks were the outerwear of choice for colonial women. They were made of heavy wool and worn during the winter months. Cloaks went over the shoulders and would extend down to the waist, or more likely, down to the ground. They would clasp at the neck and sometimes feature a hood as well.
Colonial Accessories
The final component to the colonial outfit would have been accessories. These accessories might have included an apron, a cap (or a mob cap), a hat, a fan, gloves, and/or jewelry. Aprons were usually made of linen and were worn by the working class as a protective layer over their gowns. A cap was made of linen or cotton and was used to manage a lady’s hair and to keep it clean. A mob cap was a type of bonnet that had a more decorative flair than the basic cap. Hats were worn with wide brims to protect colonial ladies from the sun. They were made of straw, silk, or felt and were often decorated with things such as flowers, ribbons, and feathers. A fan was typically carried by upper class ladies. Gloves were worn in all types of weather and spanned from the elbows down but exposed the fingers. Jewelry could have been as simple as a ribbon tied around a lady’s neck but as decadent as a string of pearls or a silver hair pin.
Colonial Colors and Prints
Common colors for the late 1700s included ones of the raw materials or ones that were produced easily from natural dies (for more information about natural dyes you can take our Natural Fabric Dyes Master Class Video Course here). The color black was symbolic for humility and was easy to produce naturally in wool from black sheep. Blue and grey were often worn by servants because they were sourced from cheaper dyes. The colors orange, red, and brown were all produced from madder root. Orange and red were symbolic for courage, whereas brown was symbolic for humility. Green was easily sourced from lichen and vegetables. Yellow was made from weld and symbolized hope. Common prints used for colonial clothing would have been very organic like flowers or vines and occasionally more geometric prints like plaids or stripes. You can take a look at the links below for our suggested fabric choices!
Cascading Floral from Colonial Williamsburg
Olive Brushed Wool from Mood Fabrics
Lightweight Linen from Mood Fabrics
Pastel Green Georgette from Mood Fabrics
The Colonial Time Period Pattern Collection for 18-inch Dolls
Pixie Faire offers a wide variety of eighteenth century-inspired patterns but to start check out these patterns below! You can also learn more at our past blog post on Betsy Ross here for information on this amazing colonial hero.
We’d love to hear from you! Leave a comment and tell us which colonial element is your favorite!
Thanks, everyone!
Katie & The Pixie Faire Team
(This post and giveaway are not endorsed or affiliated with American Girl®, no endorsement implied.)
We’d love to hear from you. Please leave a comment and tell us, Which colonial element is your favorite?
Thanks, everyone!
--The Pixie Faire Team
I love them all and with that being said it is hard to choose, but I have to say that my favorite is the Colonial Day Dress
It is hard to choose a pattern, they are all so beautiful. The colonial one are my favorites.
My favorite is the En Forreau. I had to follow the directions carefully, as I often intuitively wanted to put them on backwards. But it turned out very well. I am dying to make the stays.
I love the under things the most, especially fancy embroidered stays!
I love the underpinnings as well but my favorite is the colonial dress with the stays. So enchanting!
I love the ruffles and trim the most, but also the ability to mix and match with different stomachers and underskirts.
I like the gowns and undergarments. Also, the cloak, which is classic and could be used for any period to go to the theatre!
I love this period. Beautiful pieces!
I like the colonial gown with underpinnings and the ivy cape.
Colonial undergarments are such a neat touch to add to a doll’s wardrobe
I like all Colonial Era clothing, but especially the silhouette and the trims as well as hairstyles
Thank you for offering another great give away.
I absolutely love the ball gowns, the under garments, the petticoats & the hats. Wouldn’t want to wear them in today’s era as they are quiet bulky & most likely hot. But they sure are dainty. How they would make those women wear those tight corsets is almost barbaric. No man would ever want to have to be squished in those corsets almost till they couldn’t breath. Just say’n.
I LOVE the 1700-1701 – the Thimbles & Acorns dress is BEAUTIFUL!! I haven’t ever tried to make 1 though for the dolls but I did make one for myself years ago for an old fashion wedding I went to.. It turned out really good and we had lots of fun..
I love the colonial period just haven’t braved making the patterns yet. I just restored one of my dolls felicity from the 1990’s and I can’t wait to make her some period outfits.
I love stays!!! Even though they are technically undergarments, you can make them beautiful and wearable.
I am working on a whole 1700s ensemble for my dolls and my stays are by far my favorite part and one of my favorite things I’ve ever made! Call me crazy but I would wear them. I could use a little extra support!
Love the peonies dress, especially with multiple sizes included in the pattern.
I have used 4 of the patterns pictured here and they’re all wonderful, but the Betsy Ross dress is my absolute favorite.
I really love the underpinnings. They can be fancy or plain. It’s amazing how many articles of clothing they wore.
I LOVE THEM ALL BUT MY FRARITE IS THE 18TH PEOINS DRESS. Thank you GOD BLESS
I love this thanks!!
I like the floral print fabrics.
I love the gowns and the cloaks, especially the fancy gowns and the full length cloaks with the beautiful hoods. Would I want to wear them? Absolutely not. But, my dolls would love them all.
I love the underpinnings. So cute!
My favorite are those STUNNING court gowns. Especially the ones with the lace and ruffles!!
I like the gowns split in front to reveal the petticoat.
I love the cloaks and capes.
What fascinating information!! I have always thought the long cloak is so romantic.
Thank you for the lesson!
I love the cloaks from the colonial times!
I love the 18th Century Underpinnings. It was a fascinating period of time in our history.
those tiny stays are awesome!
love the dress and the underthings they must have had spunk to were all that material and work to
I love the corsets, but I can’t imagine having to get in and out of them.
I liked most of them. I made me understand why women needed maids to help them dress? Doesn’t look like it is possible to put them all on by yourself
I really like the petticoats.
Absolutely have a different respect for the amount of time women spent getting dressed at that time. I just love the underpinnings, even though they restricted breathing usually, they are quite breathtaking (pun intended) 😉
So much wonderful information on historical garments. I never knew about underpinnings. Looks like a fun pattern to make.
I love this period of clothing. It always looked complicated to make, but these patterns look doable for me :)
Of this assortment I like the cloak best. But of all 18th century inspired patterns at Pixie Faire I like the short gown by Thimbles and Acorns best. I want to make some for my Sashas and my one AG and for my Kidz n Cats dolls and Pandora when I get around to making her. Then they can all dress up on patriotic holidays.
I love the whole outfit, but those little stays and panniers are super cute!
I love it all. The petticoats with cotton tape to tie, the bonnets and the simple silk necklaces. A proper straw hat to top it all off. I love all of your patterns.
Thimbles & Acorns Enfourreau Gown is my favorite. The information about historical clothing was very interesting.
I love them all, but my favorite is the En Fourreau Gown
I love, love, love all elements of the colonial women’s dress but you aren’t fully dressed without a beautifully beribboned straw hat with a mob cap under it tied behind your head!!!
I love the petticoats :)
I like all of them
I really can’t choose a favorite… I suppose it’s all of them!! I really love looking at all of the historical patterns. It is very cool to see all of the layers and dresses in miniature.
I love the Ivy cape and the colonial dresses. Also the undergarments are a must. Have a great Holiday season to you and all your employees and designers!
I love the detail, how feminine the looks are, especially with the lace.
love the long full gowns and the pretty prints
18th Century Peonies Dress
Love the undergarments.
What’s not to love about Colonial Williamsburg? Loved Felicity & her colonial attire- if I have to pick I love the stays & petticoated overskirts.
I love how the chemise a la reine is looks so flowing and light. Also the embriodery especially on the stockings.
I love the long skirts (petticoats) with the overlaying dress.
I love the details on the stays and sleeves.
i love petticoats and corsets… the fashions are so beautiful… but must have been so uncomfortable!!
I like the undergarments, particularly the stays.
A favorite is hard to pick, so I will pick the underpinnings
I’ve always had a weird love for how stays look on dolls. :)
I love the basic everyday wear.
I love making multiple petticoats to go with a gown for new looks.
A special little girl loves that they are so easy to change.
j’adore cette période, j’adore l’histoire en général mais surtout l’histoire du vêtement…
j’aime toutes vos tenues de cette époque. Mais mon préféré sont les sous vêtements, car sans ceux ci les robes n’auraient guère de forme. bonne journée à tous
It’s a toss-up between stays/underpinnings and a cloak for my favorite. BUT, if you’d mentioned pockets, THAT would be my favorite! They were separate items, not built into garments like they are today. Perhaps they were the first ‘fanny packs’? 😉
I like the En Fourreau gown. It adds elegance and grace to the wearer. My second like is the “undress” clothing and third, the cloaks.
I love the capes and the ball gowns!
This is my favorite time period of clothing. I love the various layers of clothing, particularly the peasant style undergarments that sometimes peak above the top garments at the bust. They are generally a cream color, perhaps in muslin fabric back in the day.
Hats
My favorite is the undergarments.
My favorite clothing elements are the underthings. Anyone can put a long skirt on a doll, but to achieve a true colonial look, the proper underthings such as side hoops are needed.
I love the capes they wore
I like best the cloak, so elegant! But the stays are so very attractive. Glad I don’t have to wear them on a regular basis but would love to wear an ensemble like that at least once.
I think the dresses of that time period were very feminine and very beautiful. However, I’m glad it was not my time period. My favorite look though is the hooded cloak. That is one garment that I would love to see in style today. I don’t know why I love it….I just do. :o)
The gown, of course.
Lots of work but lots of fun too. Cape and hat for my current skill level are the best lol
Love all of it! I can’t pick just one element!
Love all of it! I can’t pick just one element!
Love all of it! I can’t pick just one element!
My favorite element of this particular era is one you didn’t discuss: the pocket. They could be made with the most glorious and beautiful details but were never even seen. One might make them from fabric scraps of previous clothing and embroider it. Of the ones you did mention, the corset is the most fascinating because women still wear versions of it today in various shape-wear and more flexible version were put on infants for a time, thinking that it would help them have better posture as they grew!
I love
The look of the undergarments, especially the way the shift makes everything look.
I love the dress with the petticoat and how feminine they look… Its amazing how beautiful these dresses were
I love the petticoats and the hoop skirts!
Love the underpinnings, especially the stays! This article is fascinating!
I love the petticoats and stays.
I love the petticoats and stays. Very feminine looking.
I love the stays in the garments because they were so a part of that period’s wear. These outfits are all gorgeous! Thank you!
I choose the underpinnings. I like details, especially what is under the clothing and the difference it makes in how the outerwear looks.
I love the stomacher – just the practical sensible idea of a garment piece that can be changed when something gets on it (especially with food and small children at home!), especially considering that they only had just a few outfits to own and use.
I love the detail on the hood of the Ivy Cape.
I like the petticoats.
Of all the aspects my favorite revolves around the fabrics of the period.
It was really difficult to pick one item but the stay seams to be forefront to me.
The beautiful capes and full dresses are my favorites.
It takes all the icees to make the outfit but I guess my favorite is the stays. Make the outfit very feminine.
Awesome, display of our beginnings as a new Nation.
I love the gowns of that period. also the clocks
I love everything about the colonial era clothing, but I am especially fond of the underpinnings.
Amy
July 12, 2024
This information is wonderful. I learned so much. I love Williamsburg and colonial America.