Victorian Unmentionables 18" Doll Clothes

Underneath every beautiful Victorian gown was a system of undergarments that not only defined and provided the structure for the fashionable silhouettes of the time, but also helped maintain Queen Victoria's stringent standards of propriety. A chemise and a pair of drawers were worn next to the skin to protect the corset and dress from the skin and the skin from the corset and the dress. The drawers main purpose, however, was to provide a bit of cover should some mishap cause a dress to fly up. A corset was worn over the chemise and drawers, to smooth and shape the torso as well as to disperse the weight of heavy petticoats and dresses in an effort to relieve back strain. Petticoats provided extra warmth and to filled out a dresses skirting. Before the crinoline was invented, it was common to wear seven petticoats at a time. The crinoline was quickly embraced by ladies wanting to shed their hot heavy layers of petticoats. Only one or two petticoats were needed, an under petticoat for warmth and an over petticoat to smooth out the ridges of the crinoline. As necessary as these garments were to create the fashionable silhouette of the time, undergarments were considered very private articles of clothing that a proper lady would not even consider mentioning in public.

Make a set of Victorian Unmentionables for your doll with this pattern historically inspired ensemble by Thimbles and Acorns. Designed to be worn with Thimbles and Acorns 1850 and 1860 dresses, this set is suitable to wear with many other similar Victorian Era dress designs. The chemise is made with a wide neckline that sets elegantly on the shoulders just above dainty short puffed sleeves. The placket opening fastens with a single button. Simple drawers can be made with either an open or closed crotch and fasten in the back with a single button or snap. A working boned corset is the central feature of this ensemble. Fastening in the front with hook and eyes and lacing in the back, it can reshape the figure of even the fullest soft bodied dolls. The crinoline ties on at the waist with a drawstring and the three rows of boning provide the perfect structure for mid-nineteenth century skirting. A ruffled petticoat trimmed in lace and fastening in the back with a single button or snap tops off this historical underwear ensemble.

Pattern #1860-03
PDF Pattern for
18-inch dolls such as American Girl®

Victorian Unmentionables, by Thimbles and Acorns

This PDF pattern ensemble includes a chemise, drawers, corset, crinoline, and petticoat. It is designed to be worn with the 1850s and 1860s Thimbles and Acorns dress patterns, though the corset, chemise, and petticoat are suitable for the entire Victorian era. 

 

Supplies Needed:
Fabric:
Chemise ~ 1/3 yard (0.33 m)
Drawers ~ 1/4 yard (0.25 m)
Petticoat ~ 1/3 yard (0.33 m)
Crinoline ~ 1/2 yard (0.5 m)
Corset ~ 1/4 yard (0.25 m)
Corset Lining ~ 1/4 yard (0.25 m)

Notions:
Chemise
12-inches 3/8-inch wide flat lace
One 3/8-inch button OR a size 2/0 snap
Drawers
16-inches 1-inch wide flat lace
One 3/8-inch button OR a size 2/0 snap
Petticoat
48-inches 1-inch wide flat lace,
One 3/8-inch button OR a size 2/0 snap
Crinoline
24-inches narrow cotton cord
3 yards 1/4-inch sewable boning
Corset
Fourteen 1/4-inch eyelets
4-inches of hook and eye tape OR four to eight sets of hooks and eyes
2/3 yard 1/2-inch wide flat lace
48-inches 1/4-inch wide sewable boning
48-inches narrow cotton cord or ribbon
1/4 yard (0.25 m) lightweight interfacing (optional)

Suggested Fabrics:  Chemise, Drawers, Petticoat, and Crinoline in lightweight cotton batiste, muslin or handkerchief linen.  Plain white was most common, but colors and prints were also used. Choose period prints with images no larger than 1-inch.  Not suitable for knits. Corset ~ in medium weight fabric such as muslin, silk, or linen.  Not suitable for knits.

 

Skill Level:  Intermediate. The basic pattern itself is not too difficult, but some sewing experience is helpful.