The distinct style of ladies’ dress in the 18th century was achieved by a complex succession of layers that began with the underpinnings. Underpinnings were what we might refer to as underwear today, and they provided the basic structure and dimension that made 18th century fashion unique. The name is somewhat deceptive, however, as underpinnings weren't always out of sight - they were simply the first layers of a complete outfit. In fact, for a working class girl, the underpinnings may have been all that she wore from day to day.
This 27 page PDF pattern by Thimbles and Acorns is not too difficult, but some sewing experience is helpful. It includes instructions for a shift, stays, panniers, and petticoat. It is designed to fit 16 inch A Girl For All Time ® Dolls.
This pattern is available in two sizes (18" dolls such as American Girl® and 16" A Girl For All Time®) that can be purchased individually for $8.99.
Recommended Fabrics: Shift and Stays Lining in lightweight cotton batiste or linen. Not suitable for knits. Stays, Panniers, and Petticoat in medium weight quilting cotton, silk, wool, or linen. Period prints, stripes, and solids work well for the panniers and petticoat. Stripes are not recommended for the Stays. Not suitable for knits.
Supplies Needed: Fabric:
-Shift ~ 1/4 yard (1/4 m),
-Stays ~ 1/4 yard (1/4 m) or a 9 x 15-inch remnant.
-Stays Lining ~ 1/2 yard (1/2 m) or a 9 x 15-inch remnant.
-Panniers ~ 1/4 yard (1/4 m) or a 9 x 15-inch remnant.
-Petticoat ~ 1/3 yard (1/3 m).
Notions: Thread. Shift ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon. Stays with straps ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon, 2 yards 1/4-inch (6 mm) wide boning, 1/2 yard 1/4-inch (6mm) ribbon, 1 yard of 5/8-inch wide bias tape (trimmed down from 1-inch wide commercial bias tape or cut from fabric), fourteen 1/4-inch (6mm) eyelets. Stays without straps ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon, 2 yards 1/4-inch (6 mm) wide boning, ten 1/4-inch (6mm) eyelets. Panniers ~ 1 yard 1/4-inch (6 mm) wide boning, 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon. Petticoat ~ 1 yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) twill tape or ribbon.
Skill Level: Intermediate
What You Get: One 27 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides digitally drawn step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.
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