The Sacque-Back Gown, as it was commonly known in England and the American Colonies, originated in France as the robe à la française as an undress fashion. Undress meant that they were informal articles of clothing that were presentable enough to wear inside one's home while entertaining, but not something one would wear in public. It's most notable feature was the box pleats which fell loose from the shoulder to the hem. At its most informal, this gown was unfitted in both the front and back and called a contouche, or robe battante. The style was not limited to gowns, but also carried over into shortened jacket forms that were called caracos or pet en l'ier. The jackets were originally knee length, but shortened to just above the hips as the century progressed. Toward the middle of the 18th century, the Sacque-Back had emerged as one of the most fashionable gowns, and by the 1770s, it was second only to court dress in its formality. As these gowns gained popularity, the artist Antoine Watteau captured their elegance in many of his paintings which later led to them being referred to as Watteau Gowns.
This PDF sewing pattern by Thimbles and Acorns is designed to fit 16-inch A Girl For All Time® dolls.
Recommended Fabrics: Gown, Pet en l’ier, and Petticoat in lightweight woven fabric such as cotton, gingham, calico, lawn, silk, or linen. Not suitable for knits. Lining in lightweight woven fabric such as cotton muslin, calico, lawn, silk, or linen. Not suitable for knits. Neckerchief in lightweight cotton batiste, linen, silk or cotton voile. Not suitable for knits.
Supplies Needed:Fabric Yardage:
- Trained Gown and Ruffled Petticoat ~ 3/4 yard (0.75 m)
- Trained Gown Lining ~ 16 x 16-inch (41 x 41 cm) piece of fabric
- Untrained Gown and Ruffled Petticoat ~ 2/3 yard (0.66 m)
- Untrained Gown Lining ~ 16 x 16-inch (41 x 41 cm) piece of fabric
- Long and Short Pet en l’ier Jacket ~ 1/3 yard (0.33 m)
- Long Pet en l’ier Jacket Lining Plain Petticoat ~ 13 x 16-inch (33 x 41 cm) piece of fabric
- Short Pet en l’ier Jacket Lining Plain Petticoat ~ 11 x 16-inch (33 x 41 cm) piece of fabric
- Neckerchief ~ 13-inch (33 cm) square of fabric thread
Notions:
Gown and Ruffled Petticoat
- two-thirds yard 2-inch (5 cm) wide delicate lace
- two-thirds yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon
- four yards 1/2-inch (12 mm) wide flat lace, ribbon, or fabric strip
- one yard 1-inch (2.5 cm) wide flat lace, ribbon, or fabric strip
- one yard 1-inch (2.5 cm) wide bias tape (for trained gown only)
- six small snaps
Pet en l’ier Jacket
Plain Petticoat
- one yard 1-inch (2.5 cm) wide flat lace or
- 1-inch (2.5 cm) wide strip of fabric (optional)
- two-thirds yard 1/8-inch (3 mm) wide twill tape or ribbon
Skill Level: Intermediate
What You Get: One 49 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides digitally drawn step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.
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