A Holoku dress is a traditional Hawaiian dress worn during formal occasions. It originated in the 1820s as an every-day dress when Christian missionaries arrived in Hawaii and was adapted from traditional European garments for Hawaiian upper class women. The Holoku gown incorporated small changes over time that reflected elements of current fashion, eventually adding a train to the standardized style in the 1870s. Later it became a garment used for formal Hawaiian cultural events, worn traditionally by Hawaiian-born women.
The Aloha Holoku Dress, by Forever 18 Inches, fits into a fashion time frame from the late 1930s to the early 1950s. I spent many pleasant hours researching vintage Holoku dresses, and my favorite dress from the World War II era became the inspiration for this pattern. The pattern features a sweetheart neckline, puffed sleeves or shoulder ruffles, optional princess seams, and a lushly ruffled train. During the 1970s a revival of 1940s elements cycled back into fashion with a few twists, and I've incorporated those features into the pattern to create an authentic 1970s era dress as an additional option. I hope everyone who sews this pattern enjoys playing with the many possible combinations and dreams of warm beaches and soft tropical breezes (and maybe some disco music, too). Aloha!
This PDF sewing pattern is designed to fit 18" dolls such as American Girl®.
For more Hawaiian fun check out the Aloha Vintage Swimsuit and Hula Accessories patterns, available individually, as well as a bundled package to save!
Recommended Fabrics: Medium-light to medium weight quilter's cotton with a bit of drape and tight weave are ideal. Other natural fabrics such as chambray or even a lightweight bridal satin would also work. Fabrics for the Facing or Lining could be batiste or lawn for cotton fabrics, or a shiny lining fabric if using a dressy fabric such as satin. A heavy-weight fabric is not recommended for Options 1 or 3 because it will be difficult to pull through the shoulders when turning the Lining. Also, fabrics that wrinkle easily will be more difficult because of the turning method.
Supplies Needed:
Option 1: Straight Grain Layout: One yd. of 45" wide fabric
Bias Layout: One yd. of 45" wide fabric
Option 2: Straight Grain Layout: 2/3 yd. of 45" wide fabric
Bias Layout: One yd. of 45" wide fabric
Option 3: Straight Grain Layout: 2/3 yd. of 45" wide fabric
Bias Layout: One yd. of 45" wide fabric
Option 4: Straight Grain Layout: 2/3 yd. 45" wide fabric
Bias Layout: One yd. of 45" wide fabric
All Options: 1/6 yd. (or large scrap ) of fabric for the Lining or Facing
All Options:
1. Matching thread and sewing needle
2. One pair of small, very sharp scissors to trim seam allowances
3. Three medium-sized snaps OR 4-1/2" of Hook-and-Loop tape
4. ¼" Graph Paper OR rotary scissors and a cutting mat to make the Ruffles
5. Optional: A Frixion pen or other tool for marking Dots
6. Optional: Fray Check
7. Optional: A hemostat to help turn the dress through the shoulders
8. Optional: Two small (approximately 3/8") square of double-sided fusing tape or similar product to hold the corners of the Facing down in Options 2 and 4
Skill Level: Intermediate
What You Get: One 52 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides full color step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A 6 page Summary of Instructions is also included to help save on printer ink. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.
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