“Madeira Applique” is a beautiful technique often seen in heirloom sewing. The subtleness, gentility, and serenity of this method is perfectly displayed in this graceful dress. This outfit is ideal for a luncheon out with friends, for a Baptism or religious ceremony, or simply for a day when harmony and poise are required.
The “Heirloom Luncheon” outfit, by Karen Lorraine Design, consists of a striking dress with a delicate Peter Pan collar and optional lace sleeves. Buttons and optional embroidery dot the bodice, while a back opening of hook and loop tape or buttons allows for a clean line.
The star of the show – subtle though she is – has to be the Madeira Applique. Often sewn by hand, this pattern lets you complete the technique by machine. This is perfect for those of us with limited time, eyesight, or finger strength! The Madeira Applique itself is clearly demonstrated with illustrations and allows for either a pinstitch or a zig-zag finish. The pattern discusses the use of various fabrics, threads, bias binding as facings and as binding, the use of soluble thread (or not), and stitches used on the general sewing machine (that is, you do not need a special embroidery machine for this ensemble). The use of woven fabrics adds to the heirloom feel and gives the dress a beautiful lightness.
“Heirloom Luncheon” is designed to fit 18-inch dolls such as American Girl®. The model I have used for these patterns is Elizabeth (best friend of Felicity), who is considered a pre-Mattel™, Pleasant Company™ doll. Pre-Mattel™ dolls are slightly larger than the newer AG models (although their sizes also vary within this Pleasant Company™ group). This means if you are sewing for a newer AG doll, then this pattern should easily fit your doll. If you are sewing for an older AG doll, especially a pre-Mattel™ doll, then you may wish to check your AG doll’s measurements against Elizabeth’s as follows:
- Chest 11"
- Waist 10½ "
- Hips 11 5/8 "
- Biceps 4¼ "
- Wrist 3½ "
This pattern is also available for 14-14.5" dolls such as Hearts for Hearts Girls® and WellieWishers™.
Recommended Fabrics: Light to medium-weight woven cottons like lawn, batiste, cotton, quilting cotton, broadcloth.
Supplies Needed:
- Main fabric for bodice, bias, and skirt 31" (wide) x 16" (deep), light woven cotton, non-stretch (like lawn, cotton voile, cotton batiste, cotton). I have used textile slub voile. *
- Contrast fabric for applique 16" w by 8" d woven cotton, non-stretch, like quilting cotton or broadcloth. I have used broadcloth. You want this contrast fabric to be HEAVIER than your main fabric choice.
- Embroidered fabric 26" w x 6" d non-stretch like Broderie Anglais. I have used an embroidered daisy fabric. Extra fabric is allowed for positioning purposes. *
- Polyester thread in the main colour and in the contrast colour.
- Cotton thread for “pinstitch” in the main colour. This needs to be 100% cotton and a fine thread. I have used a weight of 50, although a higher count of 80 would be better (but my local shop doesn’t have this).*
- Regular machine needle AND a machine needle of 100 (or 110/18). I have used 100 *
- Freezer/luncheon paper
- Spray-on starch*
- Bias binding (self-made or store bought) of 26" long by 1" (deep). See cutting layout for further information
- Pins (general and fine pins)
- Water-soluble thread. Optional. (I haven’t used this.) *
- Lace for sleeves. Optional. I have used cambric lace at 70mm wide.*
- Double-sided satin ribbon for sash (belt). Optional
- Hook and loop tape, or hook and eye closures
- Tweezers *
- Three 4mm beads for bodice “buttons”
- Optional: buttons for back closure and store-bought loops or handsew your own
* denotes further information about the item in the instructions.
Skill Level: Intermediate
What You Get: One 44 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides full color step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.
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