Brighton Underskirt & Overskirt 18" Doll Clothes Pattern

The “Brighton – Underskirt & Overskirt” pattern, by Karen Lorraine Design, allows for the re-creation of Victorian Era Underskirts (also known as Foundation Skirts) and Overskirts. While this two-piece pattern focuses on the Victorian Bustle days, in-particular the Natural Form Era of the 1880s, it can also be used to create modern-day Bridal Wear and outfits for Red Carpet events. This pattern is originally from a four-piece outfit that also included a Bodice/Jacket, and a detachable Train. (These other two pieces are also available to purchase separately, or you can purchase the entire “Brighton: 4-piece Outfit” pattern.)

Usually worn as the base skirt, the Underskirt can also be a stunning skirt within its own right. With a side placket opening and a gored-skirt, this piece flares charmingly over the 18-inch doll. The addition of historic bustle ties and knee casing lends authenticity to the outfit, while also helping to create a bustle effect. Optional mini-pleating around the hemline adds further authenticity as well as providing structure and texture. In contrast, the Overskirt is cut on the bias and contains gentle pleats so as to loosely drape and contrast with the tighter forms elsewhere. A fitted waistband and a back opening complement the piece.                         

Also used with this pattern is the method of flatlining (and not underlining). This is a historical method that helps with clothing construction including to hold the trims in place. 

Note: To be historically realistic, your doll would wear a chemise, drawers, corset, and 1-2 petticoats under this outfit. These undergarment pattern pieces are not included in this pattern. 

This pattern is designed to fit 18-inch dolls like American Girl® or Our Generation™.

SUGGESTED FABRICS: Quilting cottons, Cotton, Broadcloth and similar woven-cotton, non-stretch fabrics (for main fashion fabrics). Organza or organdie or similar non-stretch fabrics for flatlining fabric.

Supplies Needed:

Foundation Skirt

• Fabric “One” for Foundation Skirt 1 metre (wide) x 1½ metre (deep) [40" x 66"], woven cotton, non-stretch (like quilting cotton). 
• Fabric “Three” for flatlining 1m (w) x 1m (d) [40" x 40"], non-stretch like organdie, organza. 
• Bias strip for hemming tape. These can be made from any fabric or a self-hemming tape made from Fabric “One”. Strip needs to measure 2" (d) x 35" (l) [5.1cm x 88cm].
• Bias strip for the knee casing, which can be made from any fabric or from Fabric “One”. Strip needs to measure 1" (wide) x 18" (long) [2.5cm x 45cm].
• Trim for around the base of the Foundation Skirt, 2 metres long [80"].
• Ties for inside the skirt like grosgrain ribbon (or any ribbon with a grain on it). Suggested measurement  of ¼" (deep) x 40" [0.6cm x 1m]. 
• Ribbon to be used inside the knee casing. Suggested measurement of ¹/₈" (deep) x 18" (long) [0.3cm x 45cm]. 
• Matching or contrasting thread.
• Marker pen for marking mini-pleats and bias casing.
• Bar and tack, hook and loop tape, snap fasteners, or hook and eye closures. Additional embellishments. 

Overskirt

• Fabric “Two” for Overskirt, 41cm (w)  x 46cm (d) [16" x 18"] woven cotton, non-stretch, like quilting cotton.
• Fabric “Three” for flatlining, 41cm (w)  x 46cm (d) [16" x 18"] non-stretch like organdie, organza.
• Trim for Overskirt (like lace) at 1m (long) [40"].
• Matching or contrasting thread.
• Marker pen for marking mini-pleats.
• Bar and tack, hook and loop tape, snap fasteners, or hook and eye closures. Additional embellishments.  

Skill Level:  Intermediate

What You Get: One 57 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides full color step-by-step illustrated instructions and full size pattern pieces. A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.

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