Brighton 4-Piece Outfit 18" Doll Clothes Pattern

Inspired by a fashion plate, the “Brighton” pattern, by Karen Lorraine Design, focuses on the Victorian Bustle days, in-particular the Natural Form Era of the 1880s. The Brighton ensemble is made up of four pieces: the Bodice/Jacket, Foundation/Underskirt, Overskirt, and a detachable Train. With options for boning the Bodice, and instructions for mini-pleated trims and bustle ties, this pattern allows your doll to be beautifully reminiscent of a stylish time in history.  

The Foundation Skirt creates the base of this outfit, while also being a stunning skirt within its own right. With a side placket opening and a gored-skirt, this piece flares charmingly over the 18-inch doll. The addition of historic bustle ties and knee casing lends authenticity to the outfit, while also helping to create the bustle effect. Optional mini-pleating around the hemline adds further authenticity as well as providing structure and texture.

The Overskirt is cut on the bias and contains gentle pleats so as to loosely drape and contrast with the tighter forms elsewhere. A fitted waistband and a back opening complement the piece.          

The Bodice/Jacket has the option of boning, thus allowing for a highly couture finish. Front darts and princess lines further fit the Bodice to offer a stunning silhouette and structure. The square neckline can be trimmed with mini-pleats or lace, while a waist stay adds the final fitting element.

The Detachable Train completes the outfit with its subtle pleats and tacks, and offers many opportunities for further embellishments. 

Also used with this pattern is the method of flatlining (and not underlining). This is a historical method that helps with clothing construction including to hold the trims in place. 

Note: To be historically realistic, your doll would wear a chemise, drawers, corset, and 1-2 petticoats under this outfit. These undergarment pattern pieces are not included in this pattern. 

This pattern is designed to fit 18-inch dolls like American Girl® or Our Generation™.

SUGGESTED FABRICS: Quilting cottons, Cotton, Broadcloth and similar woven-cotton, non-stretch fabrics (for main fashion fabrics). Organza or organdie or similar non-stretch fabrics for flatlining fabric.

Supplies Needed:

Foundation Skirt

• Fabric “One” for Foundation Skirt 1 metre (wide) x 1½ metre (deep) [40" x 66"], woven cotton, non-stretch (like quilting cotton). 
• Fabric “Three” for flatlining 1m (w) x 1m (d) [40" x 40"], non-stretch like organdie, organza. 
• Bias strip for hemming tape. These can be made from any fabric or a self-hemming tape made from Fabric “One”. Strip needs to measure 2" (d) x 35" (l) [5.1cm x 88cm].
• Bias strip for the knee casing, which can be made from any fabric or from Fabric “One”. Strip needs to measure 1" (wide) x 18" (long) [2.5cm x 45cm].
• Trim for around the base of the Foundation Skirt, 2 metres long [80"].
• Ties for inside the skirt like grosgrain ribbon (or any ribbon with a grain on it). Suggested measurement  of ¼" (deep) x 40" [0.6cm x 1m]. 
• Ribbon to be used inside the knee casing. Suggested measurement of ¹/₈" (deep) x 18" (long) [0.3cm x 45cm]. 
• Matching or contrasting thread.
• Marker pen for marking mini-pleats and bias casing.
• Bar and tack, hook and loop tape, snap fasteners, or hook and eye closures. Additional embellishments. 

Overskirt

• Fabric “Two” for Overskirt, 41cm (w)  x 46cm (d) [16" x 18"] woven cotton, non-stretch, like quilting cotton.
• Fabric “Three” for flatlining, 41cm (w)  x 46cm (d) [16" x 18"] non-stretch like organdie, organza.
• Trim for Overskirt (like lace) at 1m (long) [40"].
• Matching or contrasting thread.
• Marker pen for marking mini-pleats.
• Bar and tack, hook and loop tape, snap fasteners, or hook and eye closures. Additional embellishments. 

Bodice

• Fabric “One” for mini-pleats 1 metre (wide) x ½ metre (deep) [40" x 20"], woven cotton, non-stretch (like quilting cotton). 
• Fabric “Two” for Bodice pattern pieces 70cm (w)  x 40cm (d) [28" x 16"] woven cotton, non-stretch, like quilting cotton.
• Fabric “Three” for flatlining 70cm (w)  x 40cm (d) [28" x 16"], non-stretch like organdie, organza.
• Any fabric for bias strip to measure 1" (deep) x 33" long [2.5cm x 82.5cm].
• Any fabric for hemming tape to measure ¾" (d) x 24" (l) [1.9cm x 60cm].
• 1 metre (40") Rigband Polyester boning, plastic boning, or similar. (Optional.) 
• Lace for neckline. (Optional.)
• Matching or contrasting thread
• Bar and tack, hook and loop tape, snap fasteners, or hook and eye closures. Additional embellishments like ribbons, beads, and lace. (Optional.)

Train

• Fabric “Two” for Train 60cm (w)  x 62cm (d) [24" x 24"] woven cotton, non-stretch, like quilting cotton.
• Fabric “Three” for flatlining 60cm (w)  x 62cm (d) [24" x 24"], non-stretch like organdie, organza.
• Double-sided satin ribbon for Train. (Optional.)
• Matching or contrasting thread
• Marker pen, pins, or safety pins for marking mini-pleats.
• Bar and tack, hook and loop tape, snap fasteners, or hook and eye closures. Additional embellishments like ribbons, beads, and lace. (Optional.)

Note: If you are making the entire outfit and would like a quick reference to the three main fabric amounts necessary, here they are:
* Fabric “One” 1m (w) x 2m (d) [40" x 80"]

* Fabric “Two” 1m (w) x 2m (d) [40" x 80"]

* Fabric “Three” 1m (w) x 2m (d) [40" x 80"]

Skill Level:  Intermediate

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