Do you have a fear of sewing hems on knit fabrics? Don't fret, many of us do too! In this post, I'm excited to share with you a quick and easy tip to sewing a hemline on knits with no stress at all! The secret is the use of a coffee filter as a stabilizer - seriously, it works! After trying this, I'm pretty sure you'll never go back to your old method and you will have the confidence to sew knits without fear!
This exciting sewing tip is being shared with you as an excerpt from the full Sewing With Knits MasterClass course. This is one of our most popular courses, if you haven't already checked it out I encourage you to take a peek and pick up a copy of the course today, or join the Sewing With Cinnamon community for more sewing tips, tricks, and community interaction.
Now onto the tutorial... All you need is a plain coffee filter (white or natural) and a knit fabric project to test this out. It can be any sewing project, it doesn't have to be just for dolls. Although, if it's larger than the coffee filter, you'll probably need several to get the job done!
Wasn't that amazing? Are you ready to try this out yourself?
Applying this method can help you approach sewing patterns designed for knit fabrics with confidence! Be sure to check out our Summertime Styles With Knit Fabrics to see more patterns where you can apply your new skills! Here are a few suggestions to get you started:
We'd love to hear from you. Leave a comment and tell us - your favorite "Sewing With Knits tip" or share with us your biggest Sewing With Knits challenge!
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Thanks, everyone!
The Pixie Faire Team
It’s a challenge to sew knits and I have an older machine, but the problems I have are jammed and skipped stitches.
Thanks a million for your tip – can’t wait to try!
Thanks for the tip!
You know you have sewn forever when you read all the comments and realize you have done them all!. My good old Singer 237 and I had a love-hate relationship with double knits in the 70s, but knits and I have come to an understanding since. I actually do all of the things I read in the comments. I use the coffee filter, ball point needle and a tiny zigzag stitch since this machine doesn’t have a stretch stitch. On my electronic machines it is a little easier, but my go-to machine is still the the 237. I am crazy.. I sew on all types of knits, fairly easily.. but I have worked at it now for years.
Depending on the knit, mine gets jammed in the throat plate!
Biggest challenge is getting skipped stitches. I have an older machine and it is picky.
Ball point needle and a tear away stabilizer. I will try this method.
Keep all the tips coming. Thanks
Thanks for the tip.
I’m thinking to try my embroidery tear away stabilizer and see if that works the same. Great video. Thank you from Florida
I use a stretch needle and stitch, and on the shoulder seams I like to stabilize it with a thin piece of ribbon. If the knit is very thin I sometimes use some wash away stabilizer that is used for embroidery projects.
Hum I didn’t have sound up. Its 2:30am. I’ld wake the house. I’m assuming because coffee filter or tissue paper as many say in comments, keeps the feed from touching the fabric, it won’t stretch. Wish I knew that a couple days ago. Someone , without asking me, gave me shirts to shorten. Soft slipper knit tees. Light weight knits. I hate those. I helped h err out hoping it would lead to Christ. I hope she is happy with the hem. I was not. Sometime I’ll try light paper under an edge sewing on knits
I always pin it in a dbl fold and use the straight stretch stitch and it works well! this is a great idea, thank you! Thinner stretch fabric will stretch when I stitch it so I will try the coffee filter. For hems on any fabric I dbl fold and pin with the long pins along the hem not across the hem and as I sew i slide the pins out. I was manufacturing the doll clothes. I would buy up the fabric and cut 50 to 100 outfits then pin them all and run through the machine. It worked well with flannel I was always running out of nightys, pjs and diapers, I can’t do it anymore but it was fun! Now I sew just what I want in an amount for me!! I have trouble on starts with any fabric so as it starts to sew I start to pull on the 2 threads and it helps get the start going better and not going into the machine.
Thanks for the tip! I usually don’t sew with knits but I have been working up the courage to make some doll clothes from old t-shirts. I will try the coffee filters for sure!
I’ve always used tissue paper to sew knits and 1/8” ribbon on shoulders I will be trying some new ideas next time I sew knits.
I have always used tissue paper, but is always nice to have another way.
I have a problem with the fabric stretching. I am going to try the coffee filter. I may also try some some wash away stablilzer.
keeping hems from stretching.
I really like Pixie patterns. Simple and fast but look amazing.
I’ve always used tissue paper to sew on knits but it tears easily. The coffee filters sounds so much better!!!
hems !! but maybe with this tip i will get it
Don’t combine the twin needle with the straight stitch plate!
I usually avoid knits, but this idea makes me want to try. Thank you
Great tips! Thanks for sharing! I’ve been avoiding knit fabric but maybe will try it again.
It was suggested to me to pull lightly on the threads when you begin stitching to keep the fabric from being pulled down into the machine. I’ve been using that combined with using tissue paper underneath to help sew knits.
I always have trouble with hems on knit fabric especially t-shirt knits. It always stretches out. I am so glad You now gave me a solution. Thank you!
I used to avoid every pattern that required knit fabrics but the Pixie Faire courses for knits and sewing with socks have made it easy enough that now I seek out fun knit patterns and whip up upcycled clothes from old t shirts. The tissue paper trick works wonders, as does stabilizing with lace hem tape. I’m hoping to finally start sewing swimsuits soon so that will be my new challenge.
You can reduce the chance of the fabric getting stuffed into the throat plate by use the straight stitch plate instead of the more common zigzag plate — if your machine has one. Also start each seam or hem with a two inch piece of stablelizer, coffeefilter, or paper.
My biggest sewing with knit challenge is keeping tiny hems from being stuffed into the feed dogs.
Wow, so many great tips! I have been using a roll of tissue paper for years when needing to stabilize a fabric. I love the coffee filter idea — It is bigger and won’t require so much finicky positioning. Thanks so much Cinnamon.
I dreaded sewing on knits. The stretch factor combined with the feed dogs eating the fabric were the things of which my nightmares were made. I purchased the SWC class on knits and now I am beginning to have a bit of success and building confidence. This video is a great step along the way.
My biggest fear with sewing on knit fabric is it stretching out of shape as I sew and sometimes sewing over a bulky part. However, with the helpful hints of sewing with a coffee filter under the fabric and the knit stabilizer strips, it has become so much easier! Thank you Cinnamon for all you and your crew do for all of us out there! :)
My biggest trouble with knits would be hemming them, but thankfully if you iron knits then they usually shrink back.
My tip is to use a ball point knit needle and change out the throat plate to single needle to keep the fabric from getting sucked into the machine. I have much better looking results when I press the seams as I go along. Another tip for finishing raw edges on knits is to use 1 inch strips of tulle folded in half. Sew the raw edges of the folded tulle to the right side of the garment. Then turn the edge under and topstitch, catching the folded edge of the tulle in the seam. It makes a very neat, thin finish at a neckline or armhole edge! And tulle comes in so many colors and is cheap!
my favorite tip is coffee filter or the tissue paper it amazes I how much save tissue paper from package box it make sewing knits so much easier too and it work on those sheer fabric too for those small pieces
The coffee filter/tissue paper tip has been a game changer. It really does make sewing knits so much easier.
I love this tip! I always have trouble with getting neat stitches, but probably because I sew them from the wrong side. From the video I can see that the filter gives the stability to keep the neckline from rolling so that it can be sewn from the right side without any problem. I will give this a whirl on my next t shirt project!
I’ve tried coffee filters, but I prefer tissue paper …. I keep a ziplock bag of 1” strips in my sewing area, ready to grab when I need one. Huge help when sewing knits!
I stopped sewing knits on the machine because they looked so sloppy. I sewed them by hand. The coffee filter was such a good idea I’m getting some at the grocery on Friday. Thank you for such creative ideas!
Great tip. Just ordered the leotard pattern and ink this will be a great help
My tip would be to use a little bit bigger stitch width that helps but the coffee filter idea is amazing!
My tip would be the coffee filter as a stabilizer. My challenge is not getting the channel when I use a twin needle.
Loved the coffee filter tip. Can’t wait to test it out.
I was forced into sewing on knits when my mother had a dress shop and I got pulled into doing alterations!! Well, FIRST always use a ballpoint needle!! I’ve heard various seamtresses on YouTube say that they use Universal needles on everything – well if you want the knit fabric pushed into the needle plate, holes in the fabric or “rat’s nests” on the underside – go ahead and use Universal needles. Also, hold onto both the bobbin and spool threads as you start to sew – a lot of the time the problem starts just as you start. Next, use a slight zig-zag stitch. I mean SLIGHT. Finished, it will look like a straight stitch but what it will allow you to do is hold your fabric a bit taut which will help keep your seams straight. Pinning: Knits tend to move quite a bit so I pin outside the seam allowance so that the fabric doesn’t move and the seam edge is free for my sewing machine and fingers to adjust things as I go. I remove the pins after the seam is finished. If the seam is in a tight place I will hand based the fabrics just to stop the sliding or movement of the rest of the fabric interfering with the seam. Lastly, I have no problem using an under lining layer; if I don’t want it to show – chiffon, if I want some body, I will use a soft tulle. For example: the bodice of a knit dress with a gathered skirt. I will under line the bodice to hold the gathered waist in place and so that it goes onto the bodice in a straight line without puckering. If I want a gathered sleeve to have some bounce I’ll add a light weight (very soft) netting under it. There’s more I could say but this box is full enough! ;-D
The coffee filter hack is awesome! Always been afraid of lightweight knits but I don’t think I will be in the future after seeing this video. Thanks bunches! My problem is with lightweight fabrics, such as chiffon’s or silks and what needle to use.
Can use a small zig zag stitch which helps prevent breakage on knit clothes which will get stretched taking on and off…like shorts or swim suits.
I don’t have a favorite tip, I have problems enough sewing with other blends like nylon and silk.
Wow! Great tip – thank you so much for this!! Very useful!
I have not had a problem with sewing knits but will be anxious to try the coffee filter trick.
My favorite method to hem knits is to use a double needle and trim the back. Love the coffee filter method!
Another great idea from Cinnamon! Thanks!
I love using the coffee filter trick and also using a walking foot on my machine to sew knits!
I learned from Stretch and Sew about sewing with knits. I have had trouble sewing with the slippery knit fabrics not staying in place and getting an very ugly seam line. I am ready to try the coffee filter technique with a double needle for a finished look to hems and necklines.
I learned from Stretch and Sew about sewing with knits. I have had trouble sewing with the slippery knit fabrics not staying in place and getting an very ugly seam line. I am ready to try the coffee filter technique with a double needle for a finished look to hems and necklines.
I’ve never tried to sew on knits, but after reading these, I think I might like to try the coffee filter trick
My biggest challenge is finding time to sew even though my kids bug me all the time because they need new clothes and doll outfits. I have used tissue paper but I will try the coffee filter to see if that works.
I like this idea. Don’t know why I haven’t thought of this!
Sewing hems on knits is hard. The material stretches or gets caught in the feed dogs. I
can’t wait to try using a coffee filter!
My best sewing with knits tip is 1/4" seam tape. It does not need to be ironed, and stabilizes the project so it looks amazing when I am done. :)
I use coffee filters for every project.
Using coffee filters to stabilize knit fabric has made a big difference in my approach to sewing with knit fabrics. And I now have a use for that giant Costco size of filters for a coffee pot that failed several years ago! Thanks Cinnamon!
I always need help with knit fabrics. Thank you so much for the tips!!
If the knit fabric is really wonky I use stretch knit interfacing. It really helps. I would guess I got this idea from Cinnamon, many thanks.
I hate it when I get the whole garment done and looking nice, but the hem stretches out. Thanks for this tip.
I made all of my youngest child’s knit PJs and for the life of me don’t recall having to do anything special…but now I am apprehensive about sewing with knits since it has been so many years.
I have trouble with knits getting sucked in the machine but the coffee filter should eliminate that issue. Thanks!
I use strips of wash away stablizer on my knit projects. Left over scraps from embroidery projects are used as well.
Great tip! I have avoided sewing with knits and t-shirt fabric. Can’t wait to try this out. Thank you
Your coffee filter idea worked well on the last knit top I made for the dolls. Still working with small patterns like this can be challenging. Your videos are helpful.
I can’t wait to try this tip with knits!Thank you
I love the knits so doll can look like the child
Years ago I took several courses from a sewing store called “Stretch and Sew” where I learned many tips for sewing on knits. All this store dealt with were knit fabrics. What I remember is to use a ball point needle, use 9 stitches per inch as your machine setting and to stretch as you sew. I did not learn the coffee filter trick there, but I do like it. Thank you everyone at Pixie Faire.
Can’t wait to try coffee filter! Hate the wavy hes on knit fabrics—might also work well with sheer fabrics.
Thank you!! My biggest challenge is working with really lightweight knits! I’m looking forward to trying the coffee filter tip on those!
Make sure you’re not using a dull needle. I usually put in a new sharp needle when sewing with knits.
I haven’t done much sewing with knits, but my biggest problem is with the fabric stretching.
Like many others who have posted, I do not like sewing knits. I got Cinnamon’s knit course and watched it, but havent made anything (altho I did get the patterns suggested). I’m making a goal to make a knit outfit!
stretching is a problem that I resolve using washable quilting tape; it holds the knit hem firmly and washes out easily. I will have to try the double needle hint mentioned above—never used mine for anything.
Finding time to sew is my biggest challenge.
Knits are quite challenging for me – skipped stitches, stretching, fabric getting sucked in to the machine, which needle to use – I’m going to give it another try using these tips. Thanks!
Great tip! I sometimes use Wonder Tape on knit hems.
Good tip! I always have trouble at start of seam or hem when I sew with knits also. Thank you.
My challenge, keeping the fabric from being sucked into the footplate.
I like to use Best Press to stabilize my knits, especially on such small pieces.
I haven’t had problems in the past, but I like the idea of using coffee filters to stabilize helms on doll clothes.
Great idea using the coffee filter, much better tissue paper..
Very neat idea. With doll clothes you are not only dealing with stretchy materials but also smaller areas to sew. So this tip is going to make a difficult process much easier and definitely a neater finish! Thank you!
I was using tissue paper but found my stitches weren’t tight when I tore away the paper. I guess I have to tighten the tension. Coffee filters sound like a good idea.
I love using the 1/4 press in stretch stabilizer when hemming knits.
Go slowly!
using a stretch stitch when sewing helps.
I purchase new tee shirts on sale and use them to make doll shirts. The lower hem and sleeve hems are used for the doll shirt hems. Saves making my own hems!
I so needed this tutorial. Perfect timing as I’m sewing the t-shirt at the moment,or at least trying to. Ha ha.
My biggest sewing with knits problem is threading the needles and machines.
have patience
My favorite knit tip is that ironing or the dryer will restore the stretched out shape to normal.
I really try to stay away from sewing on knits…just because of the stretching.
I will definitely give this a try and hopefully expand my sewing to include knits for my dolls!
Thanks so much for all your great tips!
I guess my challenge AND tip would be sewing a knit hem with a double needle and also avoiding the channel or ridge that can sometimes occur: Use a strip of lightweight fusible interfacing in the area where the hem will be sewn!!
With knits they get squiggly and that usually throws my correctness off.
Ruth
August 07, 2020
I enjoy your patterns and classes. I wish everything I tried to master offered great classes such as yours. Thank you.